Faq’s

Elecro heaters with titanium heating elements are suitable for use with saltwater swimming pools. To ascertain which model you have, please check the product code on the specification plate or flow tube label. A full list of Elecro product codes can be found on the ‘models’ tab within the relevant product page.

If you have any queries concerning which model or version you have please email technical@elecro.co.uk

Unfortunately we are unable to supply members of the public directly, if you wish to purchase any Elecro product, please contact your preferred retailer.

If you have already purchased an Elecro product and require spare parts, then we an supply these to you directly, for further information, please email sales@elecro.co.uk or alternatively call our Customer Services Team on +44 (0) 1438 749474 during our opening hours.

The largest power output heater that can be plugged in via a standard 3-pin domestic plug is 3-kW (13-Amp). Heaters that are 4-kW and greater will need to be hard wired back to the property’s main electricity meter by a qualified electrician, in the same way as an electric cooker or shower would be wired.

A solar cover is an absolute minimum requirement if you wish to heat your swimming pool. Without a solar cover on the pool it can only be likened to trying to heat your house in the middle of winter, without a roof It simply will not happen!

Please see below case study for the answer to this question.
“In my garden I have a 24-ft x 12-ft x 4-ft deep, 6400-gallon oval above ground pool; this was installed to replace a rather tired 15-ft diameter 4-ft deep 4000-gallon pool. An under-ground power cable was originally installed with only enough capacity to supply a 6-kW heater. To upgrade the cable would have meant digging up a patio and tunnelling under a wall. I thought a 6-kW heater would not be sufficient but in an attempt to rescue the situation, without upgrading the cable, I lined the pool floor and walls with 20mm thick expanded polystyrene sheet (the heavy duty version that will support 10.2 tonnes per square metre).”

“This pool has been in use now for 3 years, it is heated to a constant 28°C from mid-April to mid-September. During good sunny weather the heater switches off for days on end, if the solar cover is not stripped off on a daily basis the temperature can rise dramatically.”

“The running costs of this pool are significantly less than its smaller non-insulated predecessor, with heat up time remaining approximately the same.”

The Conclusion Is Simple:
To Insulate A Pool Pays Dividend Upon Dividend

And will repay the purchase cost of the insulation materials usually within the first season. To go further and liken it to heating a room in your home in mid-winter, leaving the doors and windows open – the house will never reach temperature. Close the ‘doors & windows’ on your pool (insulate it). Keep that valuable heat where you want it, don’t heat the neighbourhood.

To remove debris, build up: Take both plastic threaded end fittings off the heater (undo the long tie bars) to provide you with maximum access to the heaters flow tube. Then use a long flat blade screwdriver to physically remove the debris build up. We recommend that you replace both end fitting gaskets at this stage as it will be very difficult to achieve a correct seal with the compressed old gaskets (these can be purchased directly from our Factory).

Quick Function Test
Observe the property’s main electricity meter when the heater is on (i.e. red light on) and then observe it again when the heater is in the standby mode (i.e. yellow light on). The test should show that the meter is recording more electricity being used by the heater when the red light is on.

It is impossible for an electric heater to waste energy, if it is drawing power then that power will be turned into heat that will be transferred to the water.

Accurate Function Test
If a more accurate test is required to confirm that your heater is delivering the specified heat output, two electricity meter readings will need to be taken from the property’s main electricity meter, with an exact one hour interval (i.e. take one meter reading and then a second reading exactly one hour later). Then by subtracting the first reading from the second reading the number of units (kilo watts kW) consumed can be calculated. Note that your heater is also rated in kW hours. The pool pump and heater will need to be running continuously during the test (i.e. with the heater red light on).

To avoid inaccurate results when performing this test, it is important to refrain from using other high current drawing appliances in the property (such as tumble dryer, showers, cooker etc).

If the heater has been correctly sized for the size of the swimming pool and type of pool construction then it should take between 24 and 72 hours of continuous running (i.e. with the red heater on light illuminated throughout this period) to initially get the swimming pool to temperature.

Heat loss will slow the above times down so during periods of cold average ambient air temperatures it will take slightly longer than indicated above and equally during periods of high average ambient air temperatures the above indicated figures will reduce.

This initial climb from your starting temperature to your finial swimming temperature is the longest and hardest part of the heating process – once the required temperature has been achieved the heater will then only need to match the heat loss of the pool so may only need to come on for a few hours per day to top the pool back up to temperature.

The heating elements used in all Elecro heaters are of superior build quality and if correctly looked after will last for many, many years. The biggest ‘threat’ to the heating elements is calcium build-up and poor water chemistry/water balance, if the flow tube is clean and water chemistry/water balance guidelines within the installation and operating manual are followed then your heating elements should last upwards of 10-years. With Aquatic applications there is a large amount of suspended & dissolved solids present in the water which are too small for any filter to remove, when these solids are passed over an energised heating element they ‘stick’ to it and over time will build up and create a large deposit on the heating element(s). We recommend that you remove the heater from the system to clean it through at least every 6 months, the time will vary from system to system.

Assuming the cost of a unit of electricity to be £0.14 ,it will cost £8.64 to heat 1000-gallons (4500-Litres) of water from tap temperature to a reasonable swimming temperature. This equation makes no allowance for heat loss.For Example: an in-ground 24′ x 12′ pool with an average depth of 4′ holds approximately 7200-gallons. The cost to initially bring the pool to temperature using peak rate electricity will be 7.2 x 8.64 = £62.20. Note that cheap rate electricity is usually billed at less than half the peak rate tariff and could therefore reduce this bill by more than half.

The cost of maintaining the water temperature will be dependent on the level of insulation given by the pool structure, a moderately well insulated pool being used only during summer months may only require 3 hours of top up heat on average per day. At a cost of 42 pence per 1000-gallons (when the heater is sized in the ratio 1.5-kW per 1000-gallons). Always use a solar floating cover to dispense for the need of any top up heat being required during warm sunny days.

Please note the above information is for guidance only and running costs will vary from pool to pool and will be dependent on the following main points:

• The Level Of Insulation
• Average Ambient Air Temperature
• Required Water Temperature N.B the greater the gap between the required water temperature and the average ambient air temperature the greater the heat loss that will be experienced.
• Wind Chill (If the pool is sheltered from the wind this will also reduce the heat loss dramatically)
• The Cost of a Unit of Electricity

When using non-standard pipework, the first thing to note is that the smooth end of the pipe will not fit into anything other than another fitting of the same brand. You will have to cut it off. The hose tail may need to be cut depending on the diameter of the pipe as well.

The hose tail will push fit in to the cut end of the pipe, but it will not be watertight. You can put two jubilee clips on it but because of the ridges in the pipe it will not squeeze down tight. It will need to be sealed with a bathroom type mastic sealant.

There is no need to use mastic or PTFE tape to connect unions or hose tails to the heater, use the O-rings supplied which should be slid over the threaded ends.

All factory unions are made from ABS plastic, when gluing connections to ABS pipe, an ABS cement must be used or when using PVC pipe, a Transition cement must be used.

Be sure to apply the glue evenly and to all surfaces that will be in contact to reduce the risk of leakage.

The hose tail may need to be cut depending on the diameter of the flexible pipe.

Wrap PTFE tape or use silicone around the hose tail before connecting the pipe to reduce the risk of leakage.

The hose tail will push fit in to the end of the pipe, but it will not be watertight. Use two jubilee clips to squeeze it down tight.

Pipework To The Heater

Please follow the below troubleshooting steps to resolve this issue:

Do you have a 24-hour time clock incorporated into the front of the heater?
If so ensure that the manual override switch is in the very top position or is in a timed-on period and that the clock is set to the correct time. If you do not have a time clock this does not apply to you.

The next thing to check is the direction the water is travelling through the heater. As you look at the front of the heater:

Is the water entering on the left and exiting on the right?
If so, this is the factory default direction and you should not need to make any adjustments to the flow switch position.

Is the water entering on the right and exiting on the left?
If so the flow switch will need to be rotated through 180°C as explained in the installation & operating manual.

The flow switch is the black component on the right hand side of the heater that has a cable coming out of it and going back into the electrical enclosure. There is an arrow moulded into the top of the flow switch casing, this should be pointing in exactly the same direction as the water is travelling through the heater.

If the flow switch is in the correct orientation:
If you are using a cartridge filter try completely removing the cartridge from your pump and filter unit & operate it purely as a pump. If you are using a sand filter move the multi-port valve to the re-circulate position to achieve the same outcome.

This will deliver the heater with the maximum velocity of water that the pump is capable of, if the heater then switches on then the cartridge will need to be cleaned or replaced. Or in the case of a sand filter a backwash is required or you may need to replace the sand in your filter.

NB – when the pool has first been filled for the season the paper cartridges should be cleaned every 12-hours for the first 3 to 4 days as tap water is heavily laden with minerals, so your cartridge may appear visually clean but it is actually chocked with natural minerals found in tap water. After this initial period the minerals will be removed and you can clean the cartridge as normal.

The above is just a test and you should not run the pump without the filter for extended periods as you will be supplying the heater with unfiltered, debris laden water and this will affect the warranty of the heater if it is used in this way. The heater must only be supplied with clean filtered water.

If the heater does not switch on:
Turn the pump and filter off but leave the heater switched on, then carefully remove the flow switch from the end fitting to reveal the paddle that the water pushes on. Take care as a small amount of water loss will occur (you may wish to have someone with you to cover the hole the flow switch leaves when removed, although this can be done by one person if required)

Firstly check that the paddle is not obstructed by any debris or foreign bodies – then gently push the paddle with your finger to simulate water flow – if the heater switches on, instantly release the paddle as the heater will be heating static water. You have confirmed that the heater is working and is not receiving sufficient flow. If this is the case a replacement pump and filter will be required that is capable of delivering at least the minimum flow requirement the heater requires – we would advise that you source a pump that delivers ideally 3m³/h (3,000-litres per hour) more than the minimum where possible.

NB – Far Eastern manufactured cartridge filters flow rates very often begin to reduce dramatically after the first season, water seeps into the pump workings and starts to harden the grease that is supposed to lubricate the impeller (the part that turns and ‘pushes’ the water) this offers a huge restriction to the pump operation and causes the flow velocity generated to plummet.

If you have attempted all of the above without success the only remaining component is the thermal safety cut-out that requires a manual reset. The button to carry out the reset is located under a black cover to the lower right-hand side of the control thermostat, remove the black plastic cover and press the red button in. If you do not feel a click, then the unit has not tripped. If a click is felt then the unit had overheated and the cause needs to be investigated and resolved, it may be caused by an air pocket trapped inside the heater or a build-up on the heating element. If the cause is not found and rectified the heating element will eventually overheat and need to be replaced.

The water entering my pool doesn’t feel warm
The temperature gain of the water after it has passed through the heater will be directly proportional to the volume of water being pumped in relationship to the power output of the heater.

For example: A 6-kW heater, when connected to a 4000-litre per hour pump, will produce a lift in temperature of approximately 1.2°C (almost undetectable to the human hand). However, as the water being heated is recirculated from a single body of water, the time required to heat it remains unaffected by the volume of flow. A popular misconception is that slowing down the flow rate will speed up the heating process, this is not the case.

The connections supplied with your Elecro heater are a stepped 1¼” BSP & 1½” BSP (British Standard Pipe). Unfortunately, Intex have changed the pipe work on some of their systems to a non-standard size i.e. 42-mm. It is possible to make a correct connection to the 1½” (38-mm) part of the hose tail using 2 jubilee clips & silicone sealant at each side of the heater.

If you are unable to achieve this you will need to source a connection / adaptor that goes from 1½” BSP male thread to the size you require for your pipe work, you could try plumbing merchants or your local swimming pool shop.

If you do not wish to cut the return pipe to the pool then adaptors are available that will reduce the thread from the 1.5″ BSP to suit the intext female thread please see the link below: www.intexspares.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=CON001

Firstly, we need to identify the cause of the RCD tripping. The only component within the heater that can cause a RCD to trip is the heating element(s) as all other components are electrically isolated.

If the heating element(s) in your Elecro heater has developed an earth fault then the red light on the heater will not come on at all, as soon as you turn the thermostat above the water temperature and the amber light goes out, the RCD in the house would then instantly trip – if this is the case then it is most likely that the heating element has developed an earth fault & it would be best to return the heater to us for inspection so we can investigate what has caused the failure.

If however the red light does come on (even if only for a few minutes) then the most likely cause will be moisture either inside the heater electrical enclosure or in one of the junction box’s / sockets supplying the heater – if this is the case then you will need to dry out the moisture. If moisture is not the cause then it could be that the RCD itself has started to fail and needs to be tested / replaced.

If you need to return the heater, please refer to ‘What happens if I break my heater?’

Possible cause: Power Failure external to the heater:
Check any fuses, RCD or other switch components installed in the supply cable.
NOTE: the heater is not fitted with a fuse.

If the supply appears to be OK, isolate the power to the heater then remove the front cover to check that the neon indicator lamps have not become detached from their lenses, the indication lamps may be illuminating but cannot be seen as they have become detached from their lens.

Due to the high efficiency of your Elecro heater no warmth should be detectable from the flow tube of the heater.

The most likely causes of the flow tube feeling warm are:

Possible Cause 1. The heater has been positioned in direct sunlight.

Possible Cause 2. An air pocket is trapped inside the heater, particularly if the tank feels warmer at the highest point of the tank (as air rises).

Possible Cause 3. A build up has formed around the heating element and needs to be removed / cleaned.

If you have any further questions, please email technical@elecro.co.uk

Amber = Standby Mode
(No / insufficient flow, required temperature achieved, timed off or safety thermal cut out tripped)

Red = Heating
(Elements energised)

Due to the superior build quality and design, breakdown of an Elecro heater is extremely rare. However, if for some reason your heater is not working as you would expect and you have attempted all the troubleshooting advice given on the support and FAQ pages, please contact our technical department to discuss the problem. It is well worth talking to one of our technical staff before returning a heater, as the majority of technical issues can be resolved over the phone or via email.

Please email technical@elecro.co.uk outlining your problem and we will respond ASAP or call +44 (0)1438 749 474 during our opening hours.

If your heater is in need of repair and you wish to return it to our repairs department, please click on the link below to download and print our shipping label – complete and attach to your parcel.

If you do not use our printable returns label, please remember to include your name, contact phone number and return address with your heater.

Upon receipt your heater will be inspected within 24-hours, we will then contact you with a quote for repair (if out of warranty). Upon your decision the heater will then be repaired and returned to you for a next day delivery in the UK, 2 to 4 days for most other countries.

As a ‘rule of thumb’ guide cable section should be calculated at 1mm² conductor for every 5-Amp of current drawn, this is only a general rule for cable runs up to a maximum of 20 meters.

For greater cable runs the installation electrician will need to calculate what the voltage drop will be and increase the conductor size sufficiently.